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[CLOSED] B&C for platinum century 1 (high quality polish version)

by Eureka_Admin

<Product Details>

●These are custom designed barrel and cap for : nib section(nib, feed, grip) of other fountain makers such as platinum, sailor, pilot, parker, etc.

●The barrel and cap is made from high quality japanese ebonite.

●Rugged design to resist cracks, and last for years and years.

●Very good value for the price. Usually, professional urushi coating service alone will cost >$100 and months of wait time.

●On top of the ebonite material, a Tamenuri urushi coating (Not Lacquer or Cashew NSL !) has been applied (100% highest quality Korean urushi, one of the best quality in the world). Tamenuri is a finishing technique, where two or more urushi colors are applied, on top of each other. As time passes, exposure to natural/artificial lighting will lighten the outer Dark urushi, which reveals the undercoat urushi color.

●Self-developed, 4th Gen. Eureka Urushi techinique used to achieve high quality urushi finish.

●Urushi coating has been dried long enough to resist finger nail scratches (over 2.5 Mohs hardness). Although it can be used as a daily pen, it takes 6 months to achieve near full hardness. Urushi will continue to get harder even after 2 years!

please becareful for several months! (avoid drops, etc.)

Automotive paint = 4~5 Mohs hardness maximum

Urushi = 6 Mohs hardness (same as glass)

A properly cared urushi will easily outlast its owner's lifetime. oldest urushi in japan dates back 9000 years!!!

●Urushi finishing is superior in terms of longevity and feel, compared to polished ebonite.

polished ebonite will lose its shine as it is exposed to UV/artificial lighting, and becomes cloudy. Also, Ebonite is easily scratched. Urushi, on the other hand will keep its shine much longer and is less scratch prone ( = glass hardness).

●Ebonite is the perfect material to coat urushi with. This is because Ebonite surface is porous and rough. This special surface characteristics of ebonite actually absorbs urushi into the surface. The result is a very solid bond between ebonite and urushi. The only proper way to remove urushi from ebonite is to sand away with sandpaper (9 Mohs hardness) or to use urushi solvent (terpentine).

Plastic surface on the other hand, will not accept urushi very well. This is because plastic surface is slippery. Urushi applied on plastic surface will not last, and gets peeled off eventually.


<Urushi Finish Grade>

B   :Acceptible

B+ :Fair

A   :Good

A+ :Very Good

S   :Nearly Perfect (few tiny flaws)

S+ :Perfect (few microscopic flaws) <- 100% perfection is nearly impossible


Examples of Urushi Grade Classification (unpolished ones)



mini: 140/65/80mm (closed, cap, barrel), *mini will no longer be produced anymore a few are left.

standard: 157/75/90mm (closed, cap, barrel)


For purchase, email me: beatmaster90@naver.com

purchase method: paypal


additional high quality polishing after urushi coating (reason for higher cost)

◆dried for 3 months


mini: 140/65/80mm (closed, cap, barrel), *mini will no longer be produced anymore a few are left.

standard: 157/75/90mm (closed, cap, barrel)


shipping cost $10

contact: beatmaster90@naver.com

payment via paypal


1. *century/gathered/president combo 

urushi grade: A, (tamenuri red/black)



2. century/president standard

urushi grade: A+, (tamenuri red/black)


3. century mini - reserved

urushi grade: S, (tamenuri red/black)


4. century mini

urushi grade: S, (tamenuri red/black)


5. century mini

urushi grade: S, (tamenuri red/black)


6. century mini

urushi grade: S, (tamenuri beige/black)


7. century/president standard

urushi grade: B+, (tamenuri beige/black)




dust on the surface, removed if cleaned, not a flaw!



◆Email: beatmaster90@naver.com

◆Instagram: MechGyver_Eureka